Campion Walker Landscapes
I’ve been thinking about a hat quite a bit, something I saw being worn around town. A perfectly fitted baseball cap with the words ‘Topanga Local’ printed above the brim. If you’re lucky enough to live in the Santa Monica Mountains, you’re in a pretty special club of like minded dreamers. We find calm in the region’s rugged terrain, Mediterranean climate, and rich ecological variety. The same characteristics that make it so desirable also make it susceptible to fire. And the importance of proactive measures has become more evident than ever. I do still love the hat, but I have come to the conclusion that being a local means more than displaying your pride on a bumper sticker or accessory. It means stewarding the land and taking responsibility for how we engage with it. I chose to live here, in a place that is not only prone to fire, but cyclically depends on it. So I reached out to Jessica Viola, founder of Viola Gardens Design and Viola Gardens Landscape, to get expert advice on how to harden my home. I wanted to learn what and where to cultivate, and how those choices either increase or decrease fire risk. That is the main idea of firescaping, a landscape technique that involves strategically placing plants around a property to minimize wildfire damage by reducing available fuel.
In the aftermath of the devastating Palisades Fire, which scorched over 23,000 acres across Pacific Palisades, Topanga, and Malibu, many folks are focussed on simply surviving. Viola, who authored a book on permaculture titled A Hundred Bells, says that “If permaculture is earth care + people care, firescaping is caring for the earth so that our human habitat can not simply survive, but thrive.”
Understanding Firescaping
The goal of firescaping is to disrupt the path of wildfires, thereby reducing their intensity and protecting structures. This method emphasizes the selection and placement of plants that are less likely to ignite. Another cornerstone is the establishment of defensible space. The LA County Fire Department delineates three zones around homes, starting from the brick and mortar and moving out. The planting is more manicured near the house and wilder as you move away.
- Zone 0: A 5-foot ember-resistant zone that requires intense fuel reduction. This immediate perimeter should be free of flammable vegetation and materials. Move firewood to zone 2, and utilize non-combustible elements like gravel or rocks.
- Zone 1: (5-30 feet) In this area, homeowners should prioritize plants with high moisture content, ensuring adequate spacing to prevent fire spread. Regular maintenance, such as pruning and removal of dead vegetation like pine needles, and dry leaves, is crucial. Remove tree branches that hang over the roof, and aim to keep branches a minimum of 10 feet from other trees. Remove or trim flammable plants near windows. Create separation between trees, shrubs, and other things that could catch fire such as patio furniture and playground equipment.
- Zone 2: (30-100 feet) This zone involves the strategic placement of trees and shrubs, maintaining proper spacing to prevent the formation of fuel ladders that can carry fire from the ground to the canopy. Cut grass to a maximum height of 3”. Remove anything that looks like kindling. Give exposed wood piles a minimum of 10 feet of clearance, in all directions, down to bare soil.
Five years ago, the state Legislature passed a bill that required houses in fire-prone areas to get rid of flammable items within five feet of the structure. Technically, that rule is not enforced, but don’t say that to anyone reviewing a homeowner insurance renewal notice. Insurance companies seem to be executors of the ruling by default. Step one of my firescaping was going to involve the outdoor equivalent of a closet purge. Instead of bins marked ‘donate’ or ’keep’, my labeling would read, ‘compost’ or ‘transplant’.
As Viola and I approached a backyard hill, I was counseled to remove anything not serving a purpose, like providing shade or attracting pollinators, as well as anything that might be detrimental. Viola pointed out oily rhus shrubs, known as sumac, and various desert grasses that act as matchsticks during a fire. Also ill advised: highly combustible trees such as eucalyptus, pine, and palm. I took notes on things to avoid or eliminate, and was educated that simply removing all plants from one’s yard, in a frenzied clean sweep, will only create other problems. A whole system approach that considers fire, as well as flooding, heat, and erosion control is best. Here’s a real world example. I have french drains around my backyard, but I also have ice plants on a sloping side yard. I thought the high water content of those plants would make them less prone to combustion. What I did not know is that they offer little slope stability. During winter rains, the leaves swell with moisture; this added weight can exceed the holding power of the shallow roots. The entire mat can slide downhill, dragging valuable topsoil with it. There are better choices. When I am repopulating my yard, I will be thinking about plants’ function, not just form.
On plant selection, choosing native plants that are acclimated to our climate not only conserves water but also enhances fire resistance. These species have evolved various fire adaptive strategies and can play a significant role in protecting properties. Specifically, species like Fremontodendron, Salvia clevelandii, Ceanothus, Manzanita, and Baccharis. Deep-rooted oak trees stabilize slopes, and thrive in post-fire soil, regenerating after burning. Groundcovers like Juncus patens and Baccharis pilularis aid moisture retention. Fast-growing plants burn fast; for privacy, consider Toyon or Pacific Wax Myrtle.
I was fortunate, my neighborhood was spared from flames. That was not the case for Nicholas Walker, co-founder of Campion Walker Landscape Design and Construction, a Topanga-based firm. His credits are formidable. Though it may be his own property that is most impressive, by virtue of the fact that it withstood wildfire on two occasions—the 1993 Malibu fire, and again in 2025, thanks in large part to knowledge about how fire travels, and a commitment to integrating fire-wise landscape techniques. The hardscape was there: hoses hanging from the house, cisterns, sprinklers, and a 35,000 gallon pool pump. A smart landscape design was also in place. Now the area surrounding Walker’s property resembles a moonscape, all rock and black. It will spring back to life, in time.
Walker elucidates, “Wildfire forces you to face your reptilian self.” The moment your sympathetic nervous system kicks into high gear and you’re packing go bags, and making snap decisions as to what items to evacuate with, you begin one process of editing. Another adaptation can be started well ahead of time, and it begins outside the home.
Implementing Firescaping
The following steps are recommended:
- Assessment: Evaluate your property’s current landscape to identify potential fire hazards, such as dense vegetation or the presence of fuel ladders.
- Plant Selection: Opt for fire-resistant plants. Native species are preferable due to their adaptability and resilience.
- Maintenance: Regularly prune trees and shrubs, remove dead or dry vegetation, and ensure that plants are adequately spaced to prevent fire spread.
- Hardscaping: Incorporate non-flammable materials like stone pathways, gravel, or decorative rock features to create natural firebreaks.
- Irrigation: Implement efficient irrigation systems to maintain plant health and moisture, reducing their susceptibility to ignition.
Community Resources and Support
The Topanga Canyon Fire Safe Council provides guidance and valuable info, and the Resource Conservation District of the Santa Monica Mountains offers free home ignition zone evaluations. Engaging with professionals can also be beneficial. Both firms mentioned in this article are available for consultation.
